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Create a Shady Wildlife Habitat
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Creating dedicated
small wildlife areas in a garden, or at least giving a passing
nod to the idea of so called ‘mini-habitats’ for wildlife, has
always been one of the keys to encouraging a range of
creatures to our gardens. Couple this with ensuring that
the whole area is wildlife friendly and managed organically
wherever possible and you could be well on the way to making
the perfect wildlife garden. However the concept of
creating a woodland habitat is a rather an intimidating
prospect for most of us, yet a contained shady area is known
to be brilliant for attracting a wide variety of creatures
including birds and mammals that may not be seen elsewhere in
the average urban or suburban garden. So how can such a
seemingly large area be incorporated into a small garden and
is it worth trying? Can we create an area such as this
without it taking over the whole garden? In even the
smallest garden, it is certainly worth a try. The advantages
of shade in a wildlife garden are many, but at least as
important is the shelter that an area such as this can create
in your garden. Most shrubs are impenetrable at certain
times of year and few of us scramble about up in the crown of
a tree (except perhaps to put up a bird box in winter time) so
these areas remain undisturbed for long periods.
And the term ‘woodland edge’ need not be daunting! If you
really don’t have room for a small tree, a mini-woodland can
be created with a shrub or two, native or non-native, coppiced
annually if necessary (although every other year would be
better) to keep it confined to a small space. |
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Add appropriate plants in the
understorey, bark, logs and twigs beneath, and you can make an
area that goes some way to reproducing the shade and shelter
created along the edge of a small woodland. You won’t
have anything approaching the area of shady habitat of a copse
in the countryside, but your efforts will be well rewarded by
the range of birds, mammals, insects and amphibians that will
visit your habitat. The key to the success of a project
such as this lies in your choice of plants, location and of
course maintenance. If your garden is tiny there is no
doubt that you will need to keep everything under control by
pruning your tree, coppicing or pruning hard any shrubs, and
ensuring that your understorey plants are managed in a way
that creates the minimum of disturbance to the creatures you
have attracted. A tall order but it can be done! And
the advantages are many. A whole different range of
wildlife is likely to visit you including birds such as
warblers that you would not necessarily see in a garden
without dense vegetation or the height of a small tree.
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First choose your site Your first task in the
creation of any new wildlife habitat is to choose your site.
Bear in mind that both shrubs and tree could grow rapidly and
take up quite a bit of space if you are not intending to prune
them back hard each year. In a small garden a corner
would be a good option. An existing fence or hedge will
create a boundary for two sides which will partially contain
your mini-woodland, but don’t forget that it will be necessary
to cut the hedge from time to time. If you are happy to
let your hedge become a part of the habitat, perhaps only
cutting the top, you will need access from the other side - in
the winter months it might be possible to creep behind to clip
the hedge, but possibly not if you have planted a holly,
blackthorn, hawthorn or any other prickly customer!
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Next consider the aspect. It may sound obvious
but don’t overlook the fact that if the majority of your
garden is sunny, a tree is going to create shade. This
is what you are trying to achieve, but not at the expense of
areas where you sit and enjoy the sun, or have created sunlit
nectar borders and it is easy to underestimate the shade a
tree will project. Choose a corner in the north or east
of your garden and don’t forget that if you decide to include
a tree it will shade neighbouring gardens. Reassure your
neighbours that you are planning to keep the tree to a
reasonable height.
Next – select your tree A garden woodland edge habitat
doesn’t have to include a tree but there are plenty of small
species and varieties that will add to your garden
environment. If you have plenty of space you could try a
native tree such as a crab apple which will reach roughly 6
meters at 20 years old, a downy birch (9 metres), bird cherry
(10 metres), wild cherry (14 metres) or rowan (12 metres).
These lovely trees will all attract a good variety of birds
and insects but would still be too tall for the smaller
garden. There are plenty of
non natives though that could help to create your woodland
edge feel. Ask for advice at your local nursery but my
choice of non native would be an apple on a dwarfing rootstock
(Beauty of Bath has wonderful flowers) or a flowering Prunus,
both providing nectar and pollen for insects in the spring and
excess fruit would feed the birds. |
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If you are less concerned about something
that looks traditionally tree-like, a goat willow has more
than 250 different insect species associated with it and can
be cut down drastically every year if necessary. Better
though to make sure that at least something of your tree
substitute remains over the winter, providing a song post for
thrushes and robins. An alternative to the willow could
even be a buddleia which will quickly grow to a good height
that can be maintained in a tree-like form. This would
be excellent for butterflies, moths and bees and provide
height in the garden without too much shade. Every
natural woodland has an understorey of some sort – a selection
of smaller trees, shrubs, herbaceous plants, bulbs, mosses,
liverworts and fungi, which serve to make up this habitat.
We can reproduce this profusion of vegetation by planting
beneath our tree or large shrub with wildlife friendly
varieties. Again choose either native or non native
plants here, its up to you. The important thing is to
have as wide a selection as you have room for. It would be better to
have one Lamium (or deadnettle), bugle plus a couple of
foxgloves, rather than simply a ground cover of Lamium – each
plant will attract different insects, thus increasing the
wildlife diversity of the area. Small shrubs that
tolerate some shade could include daphne, some viburnums, wild
roses or dogwoods with coloured stems. Bulbs will
provide colour in the spring - native bluebells, daffodils and
squills and non-native crocuses are good early pollen
providers. |
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As the area develops take inspiration
from woodlands you have visited and add plants of varying
heights to mimic the vegetation beneath those trees. To
complete the woodland floor mulch with bark, and add twigs and
logs to create habitats for invertebrates. Mosses,
lichen and fungi will appear of their own accord as long as
the area retains some moisture in the autumn and winter.
Any logs, piled up in the dampest corner will soon rot down to
give a home to a huge number of creatures including frogs and
toads, invertebrates such as earthworms, centipedes, woodlice
and all manner of beetles, both adults and larvae. You
may even attract a hedgehog looking for a hibernation spot.
Looking after your mini-woodland
Maintenance of your woodland is relatively straightforward. Trees
and shrubs will need to be kept under control by sensitive pruning or even
drastic coppicing in late winter (willows and buddleia can handle this
tough treatment, others will need a more gentle approach). Bark plus
leaves from around your garden can be added every autumn, and log piles
topped up from autumn until early spring. This should be the only
time it is necessary to disturb your woodland – regard it at other times
as a no-go area to avoid the secretive creatures that will take up
residence.
Be creative! A woodland edge is one of
the most wildlife friendly habitats we can create in our gardens.
You could greatly increase the diversity of creatures that dwell in your
plot this winter by choosing a spot, adding a small tree, and employing a
little creative thinking. |
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Choose a suitable spot on the north or
east side of your garden.
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Clear all perennial weeds by digging out
or cover the ground with mulching material.
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Plant your chosen tree, taking care with
the preparation of the hole and stake if the spot is windy.
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Add one or two shrubs of your choice if
you have enough space.
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Plant understorey herbaceous plants and
bulbs.
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Mulch with bark and/or leaves.
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Add twigs and logs as piles or strewn
randomly to mimic a woodland floor.
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© Text and photographs Jenny Steel 2017 |
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